August is the month to relish summer’s sultry side, the side that is sensual, slow moving and begs for an umbrella in your drink. Think tropicalia, from the Brazil of the 1960s that brought us the African-hued music of Caetano Veloso and Gilberto Gil. And don’t forget the goddess Carmen Miranda, swaying with the weight of her luscious fruit headdress. It’s the summer of song, a late night under the stars, an extended lunch al fresco, cocktail hour with a glowing sunset, a star-kissed romantic date. It’s riotous colors, juicy flavors, dishes to share and beauty on the plate. No need to travel; we have it here for you. Put a flower behind your ear and dig in to these tropical delights.
CROSTACEO
Acqua
Crostaceo simply means “shellfish” in Italian, but on Acqua’s small plate menu, the word crostaceo beckons like a siren song from the Amalfi Coast. It’s an exquisite plate of fried tiger shrimp—those are the monster ones—with sambol aioli, a fiery chili-spiked mayonnaise. Rounding out the dolce far niente vibe is a sweet pineapple vinaigrette and cilantro micro greens. Gather these disparate flavors into the perfect bite on your fork and swoon to the aria that ensues. $14.
LINGUINE WITH GRILLED SHRIMP AND PESTO
Donatelli’s
Everything about shrimp says ocean-borne luxury; throw them on the grill and they’re even more evocative of good times on the beach. Donatelli’s starts with a big bunch of gorgeous, nicely grilled shrimp and tosses them with their homemade linguini and a rich, crazy-good pesto cream sauce that coats each noodle with herbaceous, decadent goodness. Take your time slurping up each tender noodle; this is a special dish, full of personality and flavor that you’ll dream about for days ahead. $17.99.
FISH TACOS
Roman Market
Fish tacos are an emblematic seaside dish; at Roman Market, they use mahi-mahi, a tropical, firm-fleshed fish that stands up to vigorous cooking, like grilling. The kitchen pairs beautifully charred fillets with an unusual chorizo salsa. Chorizo is a spicy Spanish sausage; here it adds a bold, salty meatiness. Spanish Manchego cheese and Roman’s pizza cheeses contribute the all-important creamy factor. Two to a serving, these creative tacos are intense evocations of the very best of seaside dining. $14.
MEDITERRANEAN SALAD
Olive Joe’s
Ah, the Mediterranean, azure-blue and carefree: The name alone inspires instant reverie. Olive Joe’s Mediterranean salad embodies all that is luscious about this sea and the region: silky roasted red peppers, briny Kalamata olives and sweet sun-dried tomatoes. Red onion and blue cheese crumbles provide pungency; the dressing is a simple extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. $9.50; add chicken for $3.
STEAMED MUSSELS IN COCONUT CURRY SAUCE
The Station Pub
Coconut equals the tropics; picture a fresh one, sporting a straw from a made-on-the-spot puncture. Coconut meat can be both sweet and savory, and is often used in curries, where its richness tempers the fiery chilies. The Station offers a fantastic appetizer of tender steamed mussels swimming in a lush coconut curry sauce, and the shellfish are another reminder of the magic of the deep blue sea. $12.
HAWAIIAN SPECIAL
Carbone’s
Quick, what’s the most tropical food you can think of? Pineapple! It’s pineapple that turns an ordinary pizza into a Hawaiian pizza, a longtime favorite of pizza lovers nationwide. A Hawaiian-style pizza generally means ham and pineapple, an odd-sounding combination if you think about it, but oh boy, does it work; the sweetness of the fruit makes a killer counterpoint to salty meat and gooey cheese. The Hawaiian special pie at Carbone’s takes it even further, with sausage, mushrooms and black olives in addition to the Canadian bacon and pineapple. Small $13.56; large $18.95.
JERK CARIBBEAN CHICKEN SANDWICH
Washington Square Bar and Grill
Let’s go to Jamaica! Or we can fake it and saunter over to Washington Square and eat a jerk Caribbean chicken sandwich, which is so much more than its name implies. It’s a chicken breast massaged with smoky, spicy jerk seasoning—cinnamon, cayenne, black pepper, onion, thyme, allspice—grilled tender, expertly charred in all the right spots and buried in a landslide of grilled veggies: red and green bell peppers, onions and mushrooms. Sundried tomatoes and Swiss cheese may have nothing to do with the Caribbean, but they definitely belong here, adding the perfect note of sweetness and tang. $10.95.
(The Caribbean Jerk chicken sandwich is a popular option at Washington Square Bar and Grill.)
