As winter wears on (and on and on), fresh vitamins seem scarce. So we turn to citrus. At the peak of its season, citrus is sort of an edible facsimile of sunshine. It’s no accident that orange juice or a grapefruit are popular breakfast fare; these fruits are invigorating, refreshing and uncommonly juicy, as if bursting with the promise of a new day. This is exactly what we need in the drab month of February, and Mother Nature is happy to oblige. So are our local eateries. Check out some of our favorite ways to infuse body and soul with a little sunshine.
Lemon Caper Chicken Penne
Lemon complements fish and chicken, heightening its best qualities without overwhelming or compromising flavor. In this delicious concoction, sautéed chicken breast, asparagus and sun-dried tomato in a lemon-caper cream sauce graces an abundant bowl of penne; the richness is nicely lightened with lemon. Salty capers handily punctuate the dish. For $2 more, get a wallop of protein with quinoa penne. $16. 4725 Highway 61, White Bear Lake; 651.426.6611.
Shrimp Tom Yum
Tom yum is a famous Thai soup flavored not with citrus fruit per se, but with citrus-like greens, specifically lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. The lemongrass is slightly floral and less acidic than the fruit; the lime leaves are fragrant and lightly spicy. A whole lot of straw mushrooms swim in the lively broth; these are the cute ones that look like they came straight from a fairy tale. The protein is up to you. We opted for shrimp, a good match for citrus if there ever was one. At Sam Thai, the soup is served with fragrant steamed rice. $12.95. 4440 Highway 61 N., White Bear Lake; 651.653.9781.
Kumquats
Don’t overlook some of the more unusual citruses, like the funny-named kumquat. Asian in origin, a kumquat is sort of a mini-orange that’s meant to be eaten whole—skin, seeds and all. The skin is sweet and the inside is sour; its citrus punch almost burns the lips and mouth. Just imagine the high vitamin C content in these babies! Use them to make an unusual marmalade or as a cute and quirky cocktail garnish, or simply pop ’em into your mouth as you would with grapes, though with the kumquat’s intense flavor, you’ll reach your max pretty fast. Find a fresh pile at Kowalski’s. Market price. 4391 Lake Ave. S., White Bear Lake; 651.429.5913.
Blueberry and Lemon Curd Trifle
A trifle is a classic (and irresistible) English dessert, a layering of cake, custard and fruit. Lemon curd is one of those substances that come in a jar—like Nutella, like peanut butter—that is almost impossible to resist eating with a spoon. Which is why it’s best to get lemon curd desserts at a restaurant; the curd actually makes it into the dessert. Lemon curd is a magical mélange of lemon juice, egg yolk, sugar and lemon zest. It’s silky, custardy, tart and sweet, like lemonade made divine. Blueberries are a good combination, visually and flavorfully; the berry bouquet balances the lemon’s tang. $8. 4453 Lake Ave. S., White Bear Lake; 651.407.7317.
Dill Egg Breakfast
Café Cravings
Certain herbs positively sing when combined with citrus, and dill is one of those. Scrambled eggs with lemon and dill present an unusual breakfast dish: As fresh and bright a mouthful that’s like springtime—springtime topped with melted cheddar and bacon, that is. They make their own biscuits and English muffins here, so get on that. $8.25. 1600 County Road E, White Bear Lake; 651.482.7742.
Thai Beef Salad
Limes are the poster citrus of southeast Asian cuisine; any Thai or Vietnamese menu is likely to feature several dishes that depend on the green citrus to enliven, brighten, marinate and adorn. Thai beef salad is a regular on Thai menus. At Ban Thai, sliced beef marinated with fresh lime juice is super-tender; add chili pepper, cilantro, mint, red onion, cucumber and tomatoes on a springy lettuce bed, and it’s a perfect meeting of farm and field. $9.95. 2186 Third St., White Bear Lake; 651.407.8424.
